Monday, May 24, 2010

26 May 24-26 HOME




It is hard to end this journey.
I said goodby to my friends. This was not sad as they are friends. The sadness was waiting for the bus watching my friends and other pilgrims walking out of town."LIfe goes on".
I have been here one month and so many people have touched my heart and I theirs.
This starts my journey home.
I was able to get a local bus to Zamora, a bigger bus to Salamanca, walk 6 km across town, pickup bag and walk to train station,catch train to madrid, hotel overnight, airplane to New ork, Minneapolis & Calgary.
This is my story of a 650 walk through a beautiful country. It is so different seeing the small towns and country versus the tourist spots. I have seen parts of this country that very few canadians will ever see, I have done 3 walks here, 300km, 400km, and 650km in 3 years, I jokingly call it "similar to the australian aborigani walkabout", I am finished, I have talked to my wife Cheryl just about everyday and that is where I want to be,"now".

25 May 23 Tabara to Santa Marta




This is my final day of walking.
had a great sleep. a german lead some of us out of town as he could bypass the highway.
He said something that really sunk home. "Santiago is not the destination, but today and everyday is the destination" It meaned something to me as I was walking with friends and that was my destination. a great way to look at life.
Stopeed for cofffee at a bar just on the road at convenient spot and time. We wlaked past old "Bonegas"wine cellars built into the hill.
Lunch was great found shade, stools,
after lunch I laid down in shade and it reminded me (cheryl know this), In choices the little boy walking to the junkyard find a peaceful sunny place in the trees. this was such a hit with me.
We walked on, in my guide book there was a natural fountain coming out of an industrial building. the water was great after another 30C day.
waqlked past private albergue to public albergue, which was in a hall with beds setup on floor and 2 showers it was great as only 6 people.
The last 2 people to check in were 2 spanish men with a wagon being pulled by a donkey and a spare donkey. they were going 500 km.
It was hard to go to bed as last day. I walked around with anna and luigina and we talked to 2 old local ladies, (60-90). They gave us all a sincere kiss on each cheek for whever we were going.
This day was a beautiful destination.
30 km, 650 walked. THE BIGGEST PERSONAL JOURNEY OF MY LIFE.

24 may 22 da Granja to Tabara



first day walking with 2 women, took a little getting used to instead of just my own pace. It was a great walking day, countryside was so different, went through avery rough valley and came across a spanish man walking in the wild by himself.
Anna and Luigina were after making time and I showed them my typical break for lunch, find shade, boots off, eat, laydown for 15 min siesta, they loved it.
It was so hot in afternoon, glad to get to albergue, we got ther and happy as only one bed taken and 11 empty. we claimed bottom bunks and then 8 byclers showed up. theree ended up eople sleeping on floor so a little crowded, it waqs free, but only 1 shower and 2 toilets. we beat rush.
we had to shop for lunch food for next 2 days as nothing open tomorrow on sunday. took 2 grocery stores and 2 bakeries tofind, bread, cheese, tuna, tomatoe carrots and chocolate. (sounds gret)
dinner was really little bar but food tastes fantastic when very hungry and used up alot of energy. Very good mix of people from many differetn places.
I ran into people who had walked steadily while I had bounced around to get last halfh finished. I think I touch some people as there was an older dutch man who remebered from 25 days ago and my name and I did not remember him. Everyone is on their own journey and different people come into your journey for a day or 2 and leave to maybe never show up again. great to reconnect if meeting.

this was greatest day of scenery for whole trip.

27 km walked 618 total

Thursday, May 20, 2010

23 May 21 Zamora to Granja de Moreruela



stayed in hostal, which is old, small hotel, usually above other business's and it is always confusing for me as I cannot talk to inn keeper.
up early and off to bus station, I am always a little short of info.
Bus showed up at 830, lady driver, big van pulling a little trailer for luggae. she got out and unhooked pushed trailer around and rehooked up so she did not have to back up trailer.
I rode bus for 30 km and got off, cot 1.9€, I plan o walking 11 km, git was flat grain country but walked on trails, I got there early got best bed, showered laundered and had lunch with some people.
Luigina and Anna showed up from Italy, (friends), they were starting their camino here, they had a dictionary so we could talk a little, had a coffee.
There is an old monastary 4 km out of town so we walked to look at it. This was firts time for me to take some time to go see stuff. it was 30deg C, sunny and no breeze. Beautiful monastary or what is left of it, not sure where all the rock went.
back to town and figured out route for tomorrow.
needed proceries, my gude book said little building by church so ask someone, it was still a little building 8ft X 15ft and probably had not changed in 50 years. I went to mass, which I have being doing more of. I sit and mediate as it is in latin or spanish. I think Luigina appreciated this as she is very religious but Anna stayed outside.
Dinner had to be preordered from little bar as they cooked enough food for whoever ordered. There was 6 pilgrims eating, staying there. we were in a very small albergue with 5 bunks but only six people with 2 showers and 2 toilets.

walked 19 km 591 km total

22 May20 Zamora



Day of rest. The albegue even fed us cereal and coffee for a start off. wandered around, found tourist office and found an iternet cafe. had to move out of albergue but found a hostal for 20E, small but bigger than an albergue.
I have to try and arrange bus for tomorrow morning to take me north a ways to walk part that I have not covered, as airplane is on the 25th from madrid.
Wandering around and very old castle with a lot of it intact. amazing how much rock they moved with no machines.finally got bus figured out, hard with no spanish.
will figure out if I take bus all the way or part somehow.
went for dinner with american and english and had some great garlic soup, you know when you had good garlic soup or so does everyone else.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

21 may 19 Santiago to Zamora


up early and walked to bus station 1 hr only, purchased ticked and had a great bus station breakfast. good places to go for food. The bus trip was 400km and took 5 1/2 hrs, I had covered 1/2 of this distance in 7 days of walking.

Got to Zamora and my typical lost in the big city. I walked to one end and could not find any markers. stopped at a police station and 10 policmen and women helped me out and pointed me in the correct direction.Checked in at albergure and met an scotch/german lady, nice to talk to someone in same language. She was holding out here as her walking buddy had a fall and she had to get a helicopter to rescue them from the trail. it was kind of a horror story,
great day for healing blisters.
The albergue looked like it was built in hollowed out rock.

20 May 18 Outeiro to Santiago, THE COMPLETION






This was a hurried morning as wanted to make it for noon church service. glass of water and started walking, ate apple orange on route,looking for coffee. very peaceful as walking thru trees again.
Made it to Santiago early so went to find a albergue in case they were full but not open until 130. found acoffee shop and had coffee (2) and toast. went to cathedral and so many people this year so had to go find a ceckroom for backpacks. I got a credential (certificate) that I had walked to the cathedral as a pilgrim which is in latin.
went back to church and it was packed 6000 people. found a pillar to stand/sit on near front so had a good seat. the service was fantastic, the nun taught the crowd how to sing durying service and the huge incense burner made its flight. went outside for some photos and ran into people i had been walking with, we went for a beer/pop and then i split.
The group photo is of spainish men, dutch, south african, german, japanese. I had walked along ways but these guys had walked 1000-1200km and they were having a hard time on what to do now. I wanted to go get a bed, got one in a huge seminary that had been partially converted to an albergue. nice part is no bunks and a locker for my stuff with a key. went out for dinner and could not find the famous galicia garlic soup but had santiago cake. bought a couple of gits and headed to bed.
The ending was not a big splash for me like it had been in the past. I believe I have found what I needed and it is at home. Time to go there soon.
my flight is a few days away yet so I am going to go back to Zamora and walk some more with some friends, maybe take a day off first somewhere.

+/-25 km tody, 550 km in 19 day, the most of have ever done and something Inever ever thought I could do, based on weighing 255 lbs, 3 years ago.

19 May 17 Laxe to Outerio

This was to be my "WOW" day,
Breakfast was an instant coffee from a machine and an apple while walking. This was a solo day. found a coffee sop 2 1/2 hrs later and so did everyone else. Nice walking day, lots of country. The albergue i was to stay at was out of town, so I was planning to buy food. The stores close from 2-5, so i had to purchase and carry early. 17km of carrying food. I bought food and it was heavy, veggies weigh alot, 4 carrots were .55 kg. I stopped for lunch after 6 hrs on trail in a grassy sunny area, no one came by and I had a 10 min snooze.

I started walking and said Ola to a man working on his barn. He started talking in english and the next thing he had invited me in for coffee to hear his story. He was an intalina who had down this same route and moved to spain after. It is so great to get a touch of the local spirit.The strong Italian coffee kick started me for next 1/2 hr.
Heade on and it was very hot, my book did not tell me I had a huge down and up at the end of the day. The albergue looked like a resort with all its windows and view. only 6 people per 20 person room. supper was minnestrone soup with all my veggies I carried and then relaxed. I chatted to a 75 yr old swedish lady that I had helped put on her pack as she said she could carry it but had a hard time putting it on. She was walking 20km days and doing 500km on her own.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

18 May 16 Cea to Laxe



This was to be a different day. Went to bar and had coffee with my walking partners for this morning, german, dutch, dainish, and australian. We all headed out togehter and it being sunday the conversation got into religion and the meaning of what is a sin. Very Deep for me but it goes with the route. The group got ahead of me and I found bar to have coffee and there they awere. I was walking by myself and stopped in asunny area for lunch, took boots off and really relaxed. the Dutch fellow stopped joine me and we talked about his bible reading, very deepa again.
I was last to next albergue and got a top bunk but did not care.
"Todays journey was the Destination"
Went for dinner and there was the 12 people i had been following. it appears we are a single group of people but do like company at times.
40 km

17 May 15 Ourense to Cea


I seem to be sleeping great, out at 1000 and up at 630.
Today is supposed to be the steepest grade of the whole trip 20%. I could not keep up to most people just walk at my pace and I made it. I was looking forward to morning coffee at the top but I was too early for bar, so just keep on walking. It was a beautiful walk thru little walkways. there was a section of rocks thru narrow fences that were worn smooth from hundreds of years of wagons.
finally stopped and ate emergency rations (bread cheese) and then found coffee in 15 min, had coffee and grabbed a can of coke (caffene for road.
I got to Cea and there was a French looking man standing on the path who followed me, kind of freekee. After we got to albergue i found out he was volunteer host and just looking for guests. he could not hear very well.This was very small town that is famous for hard dark bread made in wood fired pits. the host lead me down the highway to bakery and I bought a big chunk.. This was a great day, we all sat around as nothing to do except visit and chat. I amgoing to follow a dutch fellow tomorrow as my book does not cover new route.
25 km 455 km

16 May 14 Xunqueira to Ourense



Up early and finished off my eggs. Today will be hard day as on pavement.. started raining 15 min out and on with rain gear. This was not a sight seeing day, just waqlk, lunch was in a bus stop shelter with the locals looking at me.
As usual i had a hard time in city walked numerous times past albergue before i got in.
Went out for a good meal, I was not sure what i ordered but thought it was rice and stuff but got a great grilled fish. luck was with me.
I hung out with pilgrims, fin's, dutch, german and japan.
dinner was light tuna, cheese, bread, and 2 colas.
26 km today 429 km total

15 may 13 Laxa to Xunqueira de Ambia



Had a great sleep, 9 hrs, tea for breakfast and apple,cheese chocolat on road.
It was a cool day and foggy, seemed like we were walking mountains, 500m up and 400 m down numerous times.
The great part was at the top was a little bar(hole in the wall) that had scallop shells and every pilgrim filled one out and he nailed it to the wall.
This was a long day. I popped an energy pill in my water and that got me thru.
The flowers were beautiful on the mountain tops, Cheryl would remember our mountain pass walks.
Found a church, bought eggs and went back to cook.
wWent to mass and there was multi pilgrims there. the priest gave us a blessing in spanish.

14 May 12 Verin to Laxe

This was a erie night. I was only one in an old stone room basement by myself.
woke up and had a microwave tea and hit the trail.
I had 25 km of pavement to Laxa. I did not go by the route so got lost in town.I stopped at bar and all the locals had serious discussion on directions for me. The guy that drove me won out and showed me his restaruant on the way. We went to the civil guard who checked me and gave out the keys. I had carried lunch so made myself some food. I was going to have a top bunk on top of a dutch lady but she made her husband give up his lower so he could be on top of her. Safer for both of us. I am kind of big and shaky climbing down off of a top bunk
25 km 364 total

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

12 Salamanca to Verin


I am starting off this day with a bus ride. I was worried as the bus is going to a place that I do not have the route for. 3 1/2 hrs by bus put me in Verin, about 200 km from Santiago. It was 645 so had to quickly find a place. I found the tourist office and it was open. Jay spoke english and he was also in charge of the Albergue. I got a bed, in fact only person in 20 bed albergue. The door is locked at 830 so I had to go buy groceries quickly. Supper tonite will be microwaved meal. It is grea to bounce into someone who I can talk to and get directions from

walked 10 km

Monday, May 10, 2010

11 Salamanca



This was a great day. It is different in a big college/tourist based city then in the country. Today was to be spent figuring out how to continue journey and be a tourist. I walked to train station and bus depot, found out the bus can get me close to where I want to restart my walk.
I toured the city and seen the sights, plus have to keep up my walking as that is what I am here for.
They have an ancient cathedral 1500's.
If I was a young man learning spanish, this is where I would like to take some courses. It seems 2/3's people are in their 20's.
I was re-breaking in the boots that Cheryl sent me, feel better than the running shoes I had to wear.

20 km , 329km,

Sunday, May 9, 2010

11 Banos to Salamanca



I got up early and found coffee, I got to bus stop at 830 for the 930 bus. I realized at 1000, it was not coming on this sunday and I was stuck in this town unti 715PM as if I walked on camino I would be going off of the main road.
I went back and got room for the day and really had a good chance at doing nothing. Watched tv in spanish, Funniest videos i could understand.
I caught the bus at 715 and sure was glad, ( I was worried). I got to Salamanca and was prepared to walk to hotel that cheryl had booked but could not find a map or any directions. (845PM), i caught a cab and checked in.
My "care package" from Cheryl had showed up. my boots had been checked in with airplace luggage and missed connection. they went back to canada and Cheryl couried them and some other stuff to this hotel. My greatest pleasure was knowing that cheryl would probably have a little suprise for me in their and I sure enjoyed the card.
I walked with my good boots to Playa Mayor (downtown) and it was packed, had a burger from ´*burgerking* and back to hotel at 1030. not tired as a lot of rest today.

10 km, 309 km walked and 510 travelled

10, Albergue to Banos de Montemayor

up early and breakfast had been laid out for us. 6 of us headed out at 700,(3swiss,1 french, 1 german) I had a bus to catch. I made it to Caneveral by 1000, had a torilla and caught the bus. We did have to atake a stop, we met a flock of sheep and the shepherd yelled at us to get off the road and let him by, so we did.
I rode the bus to Banos de Montemayor (70km) and was going to stay one night. There is hot spring baths here and alot of spanish people come here for the water.
I took on a soaking in a huge 1 person tub for 20 min in thermal hot springs water, felt great, little smelly.
I went to mass and it felt great to do.
I thought of the people attending Grace's service in Calgary. She has a good family. I also realized I am on a different pilgrimmage then I had ever done. This one is having a lot of headaches and am learning patience.
This was my peacefull day, I will catch the bus tomorrow morning fo Salamanca

9a Albergue rest



I have decided to take the bus tomorrow and move on.
I have to walke 12 km by 1030, so lightening up back.
A great day of rest as minimal english speaking by anybody, but relaxing.

Friday, May 7, 2010

day 9 Casar de Caceres to Albergure de Alconetar



I thin my feet are getting tired. I walked 22 km by 1230 , 5 hrs and exhausted had to have 1/2 rest.
This albergue is on a huge reservoir.
these are very quiet days, no english people to talk to and no traffic. I will be having lunch soon and then a nap and then a look around.
Interesting walk, i believe i was on an old roman highway.
I am at a nice albegure on a lake, 15 erous and breakfast included.
22 km today and about 280 km in 9 days of walking
t

day 8 Merida to Casar de Caceres


Well I decided to enjoy the trip. I took the bus to Caceres 70 km and thewn walked to Casar de Caceres for 20 km.
I got into albergue early and had a great lunch at 200 pm , wash and a nap.
I walked around and just enjoyed this small town. not much to see, just relax.
this picture is the walkway into town.
I tried the area specialty ´Torta de Casar. Strong famous sheep cheese, pale yellow, smelly and runny. it was different on bread.

20 km

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

day 7a Rest in Merida



I sure needed a day of rest. woke up at 630 and went back to sleep until 830.
Had normal spanish breakfast at 900 , coffee, juice and toast.
Wandered around, found tourist office which gave directions to bus station which I found. I plan on taking the bus for 16 km tomorrow and then walk 21 km to a monastory that hopefully is still taking pilgrims. taking food incase of no place to stay and have to walk on.
played tourist today and toured museum with a english headset. it is built on top of a roman community that was dug up. next door was an amptheater and also a colesium both built in BC. lots of tourists,
typical lunch at 130 and went to room for a siesta.
wandeered around afteer, just relaxing.
8 km of casual walking and 20 deg C

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

day 7 Vllafranco Barros to Merida



I had breakfast with the spanish cou0le that got me the room and the lady of the house fed us at 600 am. Endless coffed and toast. she said a prayer for us on our journey and i got a kiss on each cheek. A very nice person.
I walked with the coule for an hour as it is dark unit 730, so we were in a group. I then headed off on my own as they were wlaking slow and only going 27 km.
I decided to continue past Toremega and get to Merida to get a day off and get back on my schedule. I had a break in Toremaga at a seniors club, I was sitting by myself having a coke and olives while I was surrounded by very old men playing dominos and drinking wine out of their own bottle.
at 300 i stopped for a break , lunch and give feet a rest. I phoned ccheryl and seh called me back as it does not cost my anything on my cell to receive calls. I took an hr off.
I then contineud on, it was a hard sloughing day, my longest.
I plan on staying here for 2 days so got a hotel room 37 euros
Feet are holding out ok , no blisters, but sure get sore.

I found out computors are at locotunos shops.
43 km and 8-24C

Day 6 Calzadilla to Villafranca de los Barros



We went down to town for morning coffee and toast. Met 2 spaniards doing the camino. They were going to take the hiway route to know off some km's. so I decided to follow. My belgium buddy decided to go a different route so were parted ways for now.
It was very cold this morninng 6 C.
I tried an orange on the trees lining the streets and they said do not do that as very bitter. Ther were right. the local oranges are used for marmalade.
I walked to Los Santos and lost amigos. purchased some food, more cel phone time and headed out on camino trail. stopeed for lunch by myself and had a 1/2 hr siesta.
continued walking as I decided to go on further.
Very nice country, grasslnads, olive trees.
I drank my water as I thought i was at the end but sadly mistaken.I made it into Villa Barros, very hot, tired, thirsty and no albergue. I went to the town square by church and sayw 2 people with fanny paks,it was a spanish couple and the phoned for me to get a room where they were staying (bed & breakfast). it was close by. I got somebodies room i think.
had to go out for supper and did not want to wait for the spanish restaurants as they open at 830 for supper. found a pzza joint.
sleeping by 930.

36 km 21 c

day 5 Monesterio to Calzadilla de los Barros



this was a good startoff day. 2 cups of coffee and toast. I cannot ask for jam as they here jamon and you know what i get.
Walked thru 3 hrs of fog, kind of errie but very calm, could only see a little way.
We walked thru cattle pastures, hunting lands and grain lands. They looked just like on the grain fields in the Gladiator movie.
Afternnon got hot. the albergue was supposed to be just a little way out of town but it turned out to be 3 km. we scrounged supped out of our packs as too far to walk to town. Very peaceful as we were only ones in a 30 bed youth hostel.
Nothing to do, so iwas in bed at 900 and sleeping

Day 4 El Real to Monesterio


Getting used to this schedule. load up. that is taking a while as I sure could use help to organize my muchela (backpak). up at 615 and found a bar for coffee and toast at 700.
There is alot black pigs.. We crossed 4 creeks as we walked thru farmland and woods
There was no albergue so got a room
20 euros and breakfast comes with it.

21 km and only 25 C

Day 3 Castille to El Real de la Jara

This day started off better, took a cab for 17 km of pavement and then enjoyed the walk thru a natural preserve. very peaceful, had good company, my belgium friend and a young female swiss teacher,(knew alot of languages)
the scheduled stop came to soon so kep on walking.
caought up to a dutch couple at a break but they were fast walkers. caught up to them again as they had missed an arrow.

31 km and no blisters, but sure geet sore.

Day 2 Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos

Up at 600. We had 2 very heavy snorers 10 people in bunks and 1 on the floor. The albergue filled up and about 10 people slept outside.
The day started with a Cafe con leece and a sweet.
We headed out andwalked thru fields, very green. Saw olive trees.
stopped under a tree and had lunch at 1030. Made it to next albergue by 1200.
This day was hot also, 34 C The albergue was bigger with 3 rooms, found the snorers and made sure i grapped adifferent bed
Had a afternoon meal at restaurant and then supper was bread, tomatoe, ham

19 km

Day 1 Seville to guillena

I met another man from Belgium and we walked together. He knows alittle english. We started at 730 and it got up to 38 deg C. We were supposed to ford a river but a cyclist told us it was too deep. We then walked around and did 15 km on the pavment. What a cooker.
Made it to the Albergue and claimed 2 beds (top bunks)
Had a normal (late)spanish lunch at 300 pm. We walked around but nothing to see. I searched out the path out of town.
Supper was bread, ham, cheese, tomatoe and chocolate.
Going to be heard sleeping as its +30 degs.

Walked 23 km

Monday, April 26, 2010

April 27 Seville Touring

I made it to Seville. Lost a bag, so have to wait for a day. It was actullay great and it gives me a day of rest. Working on figuring out cell phone. It was 33deg C yesterday. so will have to start walking early.
There is mass at 0900am so will go and see the large cathedral and do a little sight seeing.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Volcana delays journey

I was supposed to fly on April 19 through Amsterdam and got cancelled due to volcanic ash. I am now flying via New York on the 25th. Hope to get to Seville by the 26th

Sunday, April 18, 2010

photo posting practise


I am just practising to see if I can put photos on the blogsite
This is our kids sharing easter candy.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Airline worries

Trying to get ready to go but not sure if I can go based on all the airports closed to the volcanic ash

Thursday, April 15, 2010

VDLP Prep

I am in final stages of organizing. Booked a hostal in Seville. Wondering if I should ship a suitcase down the road with supplies?